While everyone knows Chianti, the region of northwest Italy, can often be less familiar. The Veneto, from the name Venice, or Venezia, has long been an important wine region, producing some delicious and world-class wines.

Valpolicellas can be uneven in their quality, even if they have the DOC designation. The reason, in part, is that the DOC regions have been allowed to expand, and in some cases into land that is not ideal for grape growing. Also, high yields have been allowed, which is a set-up for thin wine. Essentially, the fewer the grapes on the vine, the better the grapes are and, consequently, the better the wine. So we, the consumers and oenophiles, have to be careful.

The Corvina grape forms the backbone of Valpolicella and can make interesting reds. The region has had the much-desired DOC status since the late 1960s. The original region being located near the town of Verona; it covers much more territory now. If the wine is from the original region, before expansion, then, like Chianti, it can be labeled “Classico.” So, with these caveats in mind, lets take a look:

2008 Le Preave Ripasso, Valpolicella DOC Classico Superiore, Italy, 13.5% abv, $18.95, Angela's Pasta and Cheese Shop, Manchester: Medium intensity purple color with some ruby mixed in. Thin legs. Clean nose, medium-plus intensity, developing aromas of red fruit: red currant, plum, some fig and prune, too. Dry palate, with high acidity, medium tannin, medium-plus alcohol, a little warm, actually, medium-minus body, light for a Ripasso, medium flavor intensity that reflects the palate and adds some herbal leafiness on the back of the palate, making it a food-pairing wine. Medium length finish. Acceptable to good quality, pair with stuffed peppers and stuffed eggplant. Drink now. 83/100

2008 Bolla Valpolicellas DOC, Veneto, Italy, 12% abv, $7.99 NHSLS: Clean nose, medium intensity, developing flavors here too, all red fruit aromas. Dry palate, medium-minus acidity, low tannin, medium alcohol, medium to light body again, less body than typical, medium flavor intensity, medium length. There's red currant, red cherry and plum in the mix. Acceptable quality, a table wine for quaffing with food. 81/100

The newcomer on the Italian wine scene is Brunello di Montalcino, designated in 1888 (hey, we're talking Roman Empire history here — 1888 is just a long weekend ago in that span). The grape used to make these wines is Brunello, a clone of the more familiar Sangiovese (the grape of traditional Chianti wines). Wine geneticists have demonstrated that there actually are about a half dozen varieties of Sangiovese planted around Montalcino.

Montalcino, the town that gives the region its name, is about 70 miles south of Chianti, and is a relatively dry area in terms of rainfall and climate. The evenings, thanks to ocean breezes, are cool, so the grapes don't burn, and the result is wines that are fuller/heavier than their Sangiovese cousins to the north, and they often have a somewhat higher alcohol content (14 percent is not atypical).

2006 Castel Giacondo Brunello di Montalcino, Italy, 13.5% abv, $33.99 at the NH State Liquor Store, marked down from $59.99 (Yes, you read that right, a $26 markdown): Deep core of purple, intense nose and, not surprisingly, a little barnyardy on opening — many Brunello's need some air before they are ready to drink. Red and black fruit on the nose on opening. The palate is bone-dry with intense coarse tannin on opening, medium-plus alcohol that's a little warm at the outset, medium-plus body, medium flavor intensity of sour cherry, black fruit and hints of red fruit. After an hour of decanting and air, the barnyardy aromas are gone, the tannins die down and fall back into balance, and the whole is more harmonious, with good fruit and an earthy finish. Relatively well-balanced, good quality, good concentration. 82/100.

Brewleywed Ale

And for the beer lover: July 26, you're invited to the Sam Adams Brewery for the release of Samuel Adams Brewlywed Ale, a limited edition Belgian-style golden ale on sale for that day only. Five hundred cases have been made, and here's the deal. On Thursday, individuals or couples recently engaged or married, and those looking for a unique wedding gift are invited to the brewery to purchase some. The first 20 people to arrive in “wedding wear” get to go to the front of the line, and the person who travels the greatest distance to get to the event wins a bottle signed by Sam Adams founder Jim Koch as well as a private tasting with a Sam Adams brewer. The schedule:

7 a.m.: the first 20 in wedding attire go to the front of the line.
9 a.m.: Brewlywed goes on sale.
9 a.m.-1 p.m.: Beer and food pairing suggestions, wedding advice from TheKnot.com, a raffle (the winner sees their rehearsal tab paid by Sam Adams).

And for the Sam Adams Brewlywed Ale? $14.99 per 750 ml. bottle. The bottle's under a champagne cork. Average size white head over slightly hazy golden beer with a hoppy nose of citrus, lemon, hints of orange. The palate is just slightly sweet or off-dry, with light bitterness at the start, but good hops bitterness along the finish, good acidity, medium carbonation, ell-integrated 8% abv alcohol, and a rich flavor profile that includes citrus, lemon, orange, hints of pine, herbal notes, spice, honey, some stone fruit and hints of tropical fruit — lots going on. The flavors carry through on a long finish. Check out samueladams.com for info.

Jim Beauregard is a local wine and beer writer who can be reached at regardingwine@aol.com.