There are quality restaurants in the neighborhood where River Road Tavern has settled in, and the new pub brings a distinctive flair to rank right among them.

Atmosphere 16/20

Our Gourmet: It's usually pretty crowded at this smart new eating and drinking establishment, and a roomful of people obscures the basic layout.

We were lucky to grab an early dinner on a recent weekend, and there were only a few diners — all the better to notice our surroundings. The restaurant, which opened in January, is not large, and it's a bit crowded with about a dozen butcher-block high tables with simple stools and high-backed chairs, and one couch-seating area. The long bar has about 20 seats, and televisions are strategically positioned to be visible from any seat in the house. Rustic wood beams and exposed piping and ductwork are way up in the high ceilings, and the white birch-wallpaper on the fireplace wall lends an interesting touch.

There is a huge projection TV screen above the fireplace (for big games, we assume) but it was not on this evening. A small outside seating area is well positioned to offer a view of the building, which is better than watching the traffic on River Road or the tavern's parking lot. It's a cool place, and comfortable. 8/10

The Dining Companion: I had a full view of the bar from our table, and natural sunlight floods in from 12-foot high windows. Behind the bar is an eclectic collection of interesting bar signs and rustic wood shelving for wine bottles and spirits, lots of taps for the multitude of beers, and a good-sized plank for eating meals at the bar. One interesting sign, “Slow,” is upside down on the wall behind the bar.

There must be a story behind that, and we meant to ask our server but spent more time talking to her about the interesting food and servings. Decorative, oversized nails and pegs in the wood walls next to some tables are handy for purses and jackets. 8/10

Menu 16/20

OG: A small menu — but with wide variety — might be the secret here. Besides the Specials board, there are only seven Starters, five Mains and five Sides, and River Road seems to have hit the spot among Bedford diners. Try Chorizo & Cheese Fondue ($12) or Applewood Smoked Bacon ($7) or Kobe Sliders ($9) as appetizers, or Super Bad Wings ($9).

Meals include Kobe Burgers ($9), steamed Mussels & Fries ($12), half a Roast Chicken with a side ($16), or Braised Short Rib with Creamy Polenta ($16).

Those are varied and innovative items on a printed menu with only 17 total items (desserts are listed elsewhere). 8/10

TDC: River Road offers a boatload of beer — American ales and lagers (and New Hampshire brews), plus stouts, porters, “Eurotrash,” IPAs and more. The sight of the long row of beer taps is almost worth the trip. But while having just about every kind of beer one might want is important at a tavern, it was the wine list that caught my eye. It is as simple and the food menu. “Cheap,” “Decent” and “Good” wines are categorized by price for glass/ bottle ($6/$25, $8/$32 and $10/$40, respectively), and there are four to choose from in each category. That's a good selection. 8/10

Appetizers 17/20

OG: I tried the Starter menu's Smoked Trout Dip ($12), which was served with a hefty portion of toasted French bread and crackers. The dip was a hit. Nice slices of smoked trout stirred together with mayonaisse, sour cream, cream cheese, dill and onions make for a super-tasty spread, and it is plenty for two as an appetizer. 9/10

TDC: A hearty Portuguese Kale Soup ($5) was my good fortune on this chilly day, a rich combination of kale, beans, Portuguese sausage and potatoes. Hot and hearty, thick and filling, it almost makes you wish for winter to return to enjoy this soup in cold climes. 8/10

Entrees 17/20

OG: Off the specials board, I rounded up a Cowboy Burger with Cheddar Cheese, Caramelized Onions and Jalapenos. This Kobe beef burger was a handful, with thick-sliced tomato, extra white onions, lettuce and a quarter-slab of half-sour pickle on the side. A top-notch pub meal with all the trimmings, but ask for mayonnaise if you want it. 8/10

TDC: On the everyday Mains portion of the menu, the Baked Rigatoni Bolognese ($10) was the jewel on our table, and a very good value. Our server said the chef whips the dish up in a skillet, then bakes it with the cheese and bread crumbs on top, and the pasta, bolognese sauce, carrots, celery and onions inside. It's more like an individual lasagne than a standard pasta dish, and it's served piping hot in a metal bowl. With a side of the Vegetable of the Day (sauteed summer squash and zucchini with onions and garlic, creatively served in a small cast-iron skillet, $5), this was a terrific Italian dish that could have stood on its own at any fine Italian restaurant. With a $6 glass of red wine, it made for a bargain supper. 9/10

Extras 16/20

River Road serves nearly all of its dishes in metal bowls, metal cups for the fries, and the burgers in square metal dishes. A unique touch, and the food stays hot. Napkins are more like small kitchen towels, and that's a good idea, too.

Kids would be well served along with their parents at River Road, with Mac n' Cheese ($7) and French Fries ($3) on the Sides menu, and the tavern offers an all-around good value. Our late lunch/dinner, including two appetizers, one side order, one soda, one Bloody Mary and two entrees came to just over $61 before gratuity, and the service was quick and friendly.

River Road Tavern is a different kind of place, a far cry from any chain. With its unique atmosphere, menu and food presentation, we think it will gain a place as a new favorite in Bedford.

Total: 82/100