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April 04. 2012 8:56AM
Not your average mall restaurant
“Let's go the mall for dinner.” Unless you are 21 or younger, chances are you haven't uttered those words in a long time.
Burtons Grill at the Pheasant Lane Mall will change that. Located next to Dick's Sporting Goods, which replaced an empty anchor store, Burtons Grill is in a brand-new contemporary space you can't miss. This is the small chain's first New Hampshire restaurant, but we had already been hearing great things about Burtons Grill's Andover, Mass., location, so we were eager to try it out.
Menu: 18/20
There truly is something for everyone on Burtons Grill's menu. Everything on the menu is made from scratch, so to borrow a catch phrase, you can have it your way. Food allergy? Not a problem.
The CEO of Burtons Grill has celiac disease, which requires a gluten-free diet, so there are plenty of offerings for those who are gluten-intolerant. The restaurant has developed quite a following among those needing to know exactly what they are eating. Burtons Grill also offers a vegetarian and a nutritious children's menu. That being said, as The Dining Companion pointed out, the menu doesn't offer dishes you can't find anywhere else; it's a straightforward contemporary American menu, so if you are looking for “exotic” food, this isn't the place.
Appetizers: 19/20
Our Gourmet: Freshly made Chips and Dip? Yes, please. Burtons Grill elevates this party favorite to a new level. The seasoned and crispy disks of goodness were surprisingly light and not greasy, and unsurprisingly completely addictive. I could have eaten this as my entrée. The dip gets second billing here but was just as good. Goodbye, Lipton Onion Soup Mix and hello, caramelized onions. ($5.95) (10/10)
TDC: I tried the Point Judith Rhode Island Calamari ($11.95). Point Judith is the hub of squid fishing for the United States, and getting fresh domestic calamari from here is a real treat. Ordering calamari from a restaurant for the first time can be a real gamble because it is a hit or miss dish depending on how it is prepared and where it comes from. Most calamari, in my experience, often has a rubbery texture. This was not a problem here. Burton Grill's calamari, which is lightly breaded and fried, has that soft texture you search for. The portion was huge and the tartar sauce made a great dipping companion with a noticeably fresh taste. (9/10)
Entrees: 17/20
OG: I have always wanted to try Braised Short Ribs ($24.95) so I was happy to see it was on the menu as one of the two chef's specials. The short ribs, served on a bed of mashed potatoes alongside carrots, were melt-in-your-mouth tender and perfectly seasoned.
If I had known how good braised short ribs were, I would have tried them a long time ago. The sides were a good match for the ribs. (9/10)
TDC: I got the Crab Cakes ($22.95), composed of crabmeat, red onion, red pepper, seasonings and are then dusted with Panko bread crumbs and panseared. The sides include a seasonal vegetable and a choice of potato or rice. The crab cakes were fried to a perfect golden brown. The crabmeat had a nice sweet taste that wasn't overwhelmed by the rest of the mixture. I also detected a hint of spiciness in the seasonings, which added a nice bite. (8/10)
Desserts: 15/20
OG: It was hard to decide among the dessert offerings, especially knowing that TDC had non-verbally called dibs on the chocolate torte. When the server told us that in addition to the menu, the chef's dessert was butterscotch pudding, I was sold. It didn't hurt that she said there were toffee bits on top and it was made with a De Kupyer liqueur. The dessert helped the evening end on a sweet note, but perhaps a little too sweet. Halfway through I had to stop eating because it became cloying. ($6.95) (7/10)
TDC: For dessert I went with my go-to favorite the Warmed Chocolate Torte ($5.95). The Torte is made with fresh whipped cream and is served as a wedge with a delicious chocolate topping that rains down the cake's sides. It had a rich flavor to it that felt like a warm chocolate hug. (8/10)
Final thoughts: 17/20
Overall, we really enjoyed Burtons Grill. We missed the warm weather spell so unfortunately we couldn't take advantage of the outdoor dining. But the inside is warm, open and inviting, too.
Service was spot-on; the host and the server helped to make it a very positive experience. It's a great place to take a date or your family and worth battling Daniel Webster Highway traffic to get to.
Total: 86/100
Burtons Grill at the Pheasant Lane Mall will change that. Located next to Dick's Sporting Goods, which replaced an empty anchor store, Burtons Grill is in a brand-new contemporary space you can't miss. This is the small chain's first New Hampshire restaurant, but we had already been hearing great things about Burtons Grill's Andover, Mass., location, so we were eager to try it out.
Menu: 18/20
There truly is something for everyone on Burtons Grill's menu. Everything on the menu is made from scratch, so to borrow a catch phrase, you can have it your way. Food allergy? Not a problem.
The CEO of Burtons Grill has celiac disease, which requires a gluten-free diet, so there are plenty of offerings for those who are gluten-intolerant. The restaurant has developed quite a following among those needing to know exactly what they are eating. Burtons Grill also offers a vegetarian and a nutritious children's menu. That being said, as The Dining Companion pointed out, the menu doesn't offer dishes you can't find anywhere else; it's a straightforward contemporary American menu, so if you are looking for “exotic” food, this isn't the place.
Appetizers: 19/20
Our Gourmet: Freshly made Chips and Dip? Yes, please. Burtons Grill elevates this party favorite to a new level. The seasoned and crispy disks of goodness were surprisingly light and not greasy, and unsurprisingly completely addictive. I could have eaten this as my entrée. The dip gets second billing here but was just as good. Goodbye, Lipton Onion Soup Mix and hello, caramelized onions. ($5.95) (10/10)
TDC: I tried the Point Judith Rhode Island Calamari ($11.95). Point Judith is the hub of squid fishing for the United States, and getting fresh domestic calamari from here is a real treat. Ordering calamari from a restaurant for the first time can be a real gamble because it is a hit or miss dish depending on how it is prepared and where it comes from. Most calamari, in my experience, often has a rubbery texture. This was not a problem here. Burton Grill's calamari, which is lightly breaded and fried, has that soft texture you search for. The portion was huge and the tartar sauce made a great dipping companion with a noticeably fresh taste. (9/10)
Entrees: 17/20
OG: I have always wanted to try Braised Short Ribs ($24.95) so I was happy to see it was on the menu as one of the two chef's specials. The short ribs, served on a bed of mashed potatoes alongside carrots, were melt-in-your-mouth tender and perfectly seasoned.
If I had known how good braised short ribs were, I would have tried them a long time ago. The sides were a good match for the ribs. (9/10)
TDC: I got the Crab Cakes ($22.95), composed of crabmeat, red onion, red pepper, seasonings and are then dusted with Panko bread crumbs and panseared. The sides include a seasonal vegetable and a choice of potato or rice. The crab cakes were fried to a perfect golden brown. The crabmeat had a nice sweet taste that wasn't overwhelmed by the rest of the mixture. I also detected a hint of spiciness in the seasonings, which added a nice bite. (8/10)
Desserts: 15/20
OG: It was hard to decide among the dessert offerings, especially knowing that TDC had non-verbally called dibs on the chocolate torte. When the server told us that in addition to the menu, the chef's dessert was butterscotch pudding, I was sold. It didn't hurt that she said there were toffee bits on top and it was made with a De Kupyer liqueur. The dessert helped the evening end on a sweet note, but perhaps a little too sweet. Halfway through I had to stop eating because it became cloying. ($6.95) (7/10)
TDC: For dessert I went with my go-to favorite the Warmed Chocolate Torte ($5.95). The Torte is made with fresh whipped cream and is served as a wedge with a delicious chocolate topping that rains down the cake's sides. It had a rich flavor to it that felt like a warm chocolate hug. (8/10)
Final thoughts: 17/20
Overall, we really enjoyed Burtons Grill. We missed the warm weather spell so unfortunately we couldn't take advantage of the outdoor dining. But the inside is warm, open and inviting, too.
Service was spot-on; the host and the server helped to make it a very positive experience. It's a great place to take a date or your family and worth battling Daniel Webster Highway traffic to get to.
Total: 86/100
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