Local celebrity chef Michael Timothy opened Surf in 2002 in downtown Nashua across the street from the original Michael Timothy's urban bistro (re-imagined recently as MT's Local). Another Surf location opened in Portsmouth this year as part of his growing restaurant empire, so with eager anticipation, we thought we'd check out the original.

Menu: 18/20

If you aren't in the mood for seafood, you are definitely in the wrong place. But if you are, welcome to seafood heaven. From a raw bar to “surf-style” sandwiches, salads, and entrees, there are interesting choices of appetizers and entrees in many different preparations from fried to steamed and everything in between. For landlubbers, there are limited options for you. The menu also features a sizable list of specialty martinis, wine and beer. The Key Lime martini ($10) was just the right balance of sweet and tart, and a great way to start off the meal.

Appetizers: 17/20

Our Gourmet: I opted for a throwback dish, Baked Clams Casino ($12) with garlic herb butter, Ritz crumbs and cherrywood smoked bacon. Five one-bite wonders graced the plate and I enjoyed each one. The clams were delicious as the “casino” didn't overwhelm the sweetness of the clam. I'm not sure how this dish ever fell out of favor it if it tasted this good. (9/10)

TDC: I ordered the Ginger Shrimp Spring Rolls ($12). The shrimp was mixed with scallion and jasmine rice and packed inside of a crispy spring roll cooked to a delicate flakiness. It was served with a delicious peanut-ponzu sauce, which added a little bit of tart to go with a trailing hint of peanut. (8/10)

Entrees: 13/20

OG: I was intrigued by one of the house specialties, the Potato-Encrusted Haddock ($23), which is served on overcooked green beans, toasted almonds and brown butter hollandaise. The fish itself was moist and delicious. However the potato, which is fried, was on the oily side so it tended to overwhelm the delicate haddock. The bright hollandaise was a nice foil for the dish; I just wish there had been more of it. It wasn't until after dinner that I realized the horseradish sour cream that is supposed to be served on the side never made it to my plate. That would have helped, too. (6/10)

TDC: I had the Grilled Atlantic Swordfish ($27). The swordfish is brushed with garlic butter and served on Parmesan orzo risotto and topped with a warm roasted mushroom salad. The Parmesan orzo risotto was creamy and filling. The swordfish was quite tasty, though a little bit dry. The mushrooms were well-marinated and plentiful making this an appetite-satisfying dish. (7/10)

Desserts: 16/20

OG: I was looking for a home-y style dessert to complete my meal, so when I saw the White Chocolate Banana Bread Pudding ($8) on the menu, I was sold. It was a perfectly-sized dessert to finish the meal, but unfortunately the bread pudding was a bit dry. A little more white chocolate sauce would have done the trick. (8/10)

TDC: For dessert I had the Flourless Chocolate Torte ($8) It was served with a large, thin chocolate wafer fish swimming through it, which added some whimsy to the dish. The dessert was comprised of wondrous layers of cake, rich and creamy chocolate, and a bit of thick chocolate mixed in to make this an excellent exclamation point. (8/10)

Final thoughts: 15/20

Our server was attentive and personable, but we did have to wait a bit for someone to appear to seat us. The restaurant was busy, but the tables are spaced out so you don't feel crowded. Surf has a modern, beachy vibe, which is attractive especially during the darker, winter months. If you're lucky, you can sit in front and enjoy a great view of Main Street. Overall, the experience was pleasant, but given Surf's reputation in the area for serving fine cuisine, it didn't quite meet our lofty expectations.

Total: 79/100