Our Gourmet
HERMANOS COCINA MEXICANA
11 Hills Ave., Concord
228-5788; hermanosmexican.com

Serving: Lunch – Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner – Sunday through Thursday, 5-9 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5-10 p.m.

Cuisine: Mexican

Prices: Entrees Entrées $4.99-$15.99

Scoring: Our Gourmet and The Dining Companion each grade a restaurant in six categories, for a combined total score of up to 100 points.

Visit the Dining section of NewHampshire.com to read previous Our Gourmet reviews listed by town.

The Dining Companion: I remember in the early ’90s driving back from a weekend at the ski club in Bartlett and, when we reached Concord, pulling into a little funky place called Hermanos that made some of the best guacamole and Mexican food in New Hampshire. Today the funky place is gone, but the quality of Hermanos still lives on.

Ambiance: 7/10

Our Gourmet: Downstairs at Hermanos is the main dining area, divided into two rooms; upstairs is the bar area. On this night we opted for the bar because we were told there was going to be live jazz — it turned out to be one guy and a keyboard, playing standards, but it was pleasant. While there’s nothing very fancy about Hermanos, it’s a comfortable place for dinner. Score: 3.5

TDC: The funkiness of the old Hermanos, which sat a lot less people, is gone. The restaurant was updated and moved into a larger building right around the corner in 1995. More of a family crowd comes to this location. Upon hearing the din of many children downstairs, we opted for the lounge. Just our luck, we were seated next to a large, loud group of preteens. Beggars can’t be choosers when tables are in short supply, so we sat. Score: 3.5

Appetizers: 18.5/20

OG: We ordered the appetizer platter ($19.99) to share. There were flautas (my favorite), taquitos, baby chimichangas and a baby green chili quesadilla served on blue and yellow corn tortilla chips with guacamole, sour cream and frijole dip. The flautas and taquitos — both consist of meat rolled in a corn tortilla and deep fried — were crunchy and full of flavor. Dipped in the generous servings of guacamole and sour cream, they were delicious. The chimichangas were surprisingly good. Add to that a darn good Margarita and I was in heaven. Score: 9.5

TDC: I was pleased with the appetizer platter, but also ordered a cup of sopa de frijoles negra ($2.99), which to the gringo, is a thick black bean soup with a dollop of sour cream. This is one of my favorite soups to make at home and this one was thick and wonderful — silky smooth with subtle flavors of onion, cilantro, and other spices. Score: 9

Entrees: 18.5/20

OG: The pastor avocado ($14.99), consisted of a flour tortilla filled with grilled sirloin, cheese, tomatoes, black olives, scallions, onions and jalapenos, with fresh avocado. The sirloin was cooked well and was flavorful. It’s a very large serving, and it was all I could do to put a respectable dent in it. Score: 9

TDC: I ordered one of the specials, the fish taco ($5.99 each), a tortilla-encrusted piece of tilapia served in a soft tortilla with shredded cabbage, lettuce, tomato and a chipotle sour cream. My experience is that fish tacos usually have just little pieces of fried fish, but these were actually a treat. The fish was a pan-fried, moist tilapia filet well-breaded and seasoned in an interesting crust made of ground tortilla chips. It was delicious with a little of the sour cream or by itself. The fish kind of got lost in all the other fillings, so I suggest that the fish be offered by itself with a couple of sides instead of getting buried in all the cabbage and other items. Still, I would put this on my “would order again” list. Score: 9.5

Dessert 17/20

OG: Hermanos has the most extensive dessert menu that I’ve ever seen at a Mexican restaurant. A lot of the offerings are actually pretty familiar — they just have some sort of Mexican twist to them. For instance, I had what was essentially a chocolate pecan pie ($4.95). It arrived hot and gooey. And even though I was pretty much beyond full at that point, I enjoyed it thoroughly. Score: 9

TDC: I went with the chocolate espresso cake ($4.95), which is made in-house as are all of their desserts. It is a thick, dense chocolate cake with a thick chocolate ganache and an espresso bean on top. After a filling meal, it was probably not the best choice, but was very good. Score: 8

Service: 9/10

OG: Our waitress was very busy, but she was friendly and pleasant and did a pretty good job delivering everything we ordered, correctly and in a fairly timely manner. Score: 4.5

TDC: Our waitress Karen seemed to be running full tilt, but did take good care of us. I tried to get a little conversation going with her to get a few little facts about the place for this review, but she was all business and running to the next table. Score: 4.5

Value: 18/20

OG: The prices at Hermanos are very reasonable and you get a lot for the money — both in quality and in quantity. Although you can run up a pretty good bill if you have a few top-shelf Margaritas, you can get out of there relatively inexpensively if you don’t — but of course, what’s Mexican food without Margaritas? Score: 9

TDC: A meal at Hermanos is a value as you will not walk out hungry. That must be why we saw so many families on a Sunday night having dinner there. Worth the trip. Score: 9

Total: 88/100

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