Our Gourmet
NONNI'S ITALIAN EATERY
17 West Main St., Hillsborough
464-6766; nonnisitalianeatery.com

Serving: Tuesday-Thursday, 5- 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-10 p.m.; Sunday, 5-8 p.m.

Dinner entrees: $11.95-28

Scoring: Our Gourmet and The Dining Companion each grade a restaurant in six categories, for a combined total score of up to 100 points.

Visit the Dining section of NewHampshire.com to read previous Our Gourmet reviews listed by town.

Our Gourmet: Nonni’s has three locations (Concord, New London and Hillsborough) and it was the Hillsborough one that we tried out recently. Located on the main street in town, the restaurant is in an old brick building with big windows overlooking the street. Simple and roomy, it really is a neat little place and quite comfortable.

Appetizer 17/20

OG: My choice for a starter was Proscuitto de Parma ($8.95), thinly sliced parma ham drizzled with truffle oil and topped with a Parmesan crisp. The crisp was a nice surprise – a thin, round waffle-like creation that was wonderfully crispy and deliciously cheesy. I love a good prosciutto and although this was nothing fancy, it was satisfying nevertheless. 8.5

The Dining Companion: I decided that I had to try one of the homemade meatballs ($2.49 each) as they are advertised as being “Just like Mama use to make.” I’m not sure how good your Mama’s meatballs were, but my mother never made them this good. (Sorry, Mom.) This moist and flavorful meatball was the size of a lemon and was served in a fresh, sweet tomato and basil marinara that was simple, but delicious. 8.5

We also had an order of their garlic knots ($4.99), garlic bread twists tossed in olive oil, garlic and Parmesan. Very tasty, but it was a bit too much bread on the table: Nonni’s very good homemade Italian bread comes with your meal.

Entree 16.5/20

OG: It came down to a choice between veal and pasta and the pasta won out. The Penne Vodka ala Rosa ($13.95), was a very tasty and ample portion of tube-shaped penne cooked al dente and tossed in a cream sauce made rosy by mixing it with marinara. The sauce had bacon, onion and crushed red pepper and was flamed with vodka. This was really delicious with a sauce that was creamy, but not overly so, making it a bit lighter than some I’ve had. Nonni’s marinara really is wonderful – tangy and slightly sweet – giving the Rosa sauce a unique and delectable flavor. A great dish for the price. 9.5

TDC: The Lasagne Dal Forno ($15.99) is listed as spinach pasta layered with a meat ragu, porcini mushrooms and ricotta cheese, then oven baked and topped with fresh tomato and basil sauce. The dish, as it was served to me, was delicious with layers of a creamy ricotta and porcini mushrooms throughout. But I thought I was missing something halfway through my meal, and I decided to take it apart and look at what made it up. What I found was that there was no meat ragu anywhere to be found. If they had advertised this as a meatless lasagne, I would have been satisfied, but it was not as advertised, so I have to take some points off. 7.

Dessert 17/20

OG: There are only a few desserts offered at Nonni’s, so TDC and I split as we usually do – he had the cannoli and I had the tiramisu ($5.49). The espresso-soaked cake concoction was quite creamy and sweet, with the espresso flavor coming through nicely. A tasty end to a satisfying meal. 8.5

TDC: I ordered chocolate-chip cannolis ($5.49), two large cannolis stuffed with a nice sweet and creamy ricotta. Just what I needed to finish off my meal. 8.5

All the Rest 19/20

OG: I loved the Hillsborough location. It had a nice ambiance and flavor that enhanced the dining experience. Our server Lindsey was competent and professional. The food was good. Add a window seat and a nice glass of Sangiovese and I was happy as can be. 9.5

TDC: We had our choice of any of the three Nonni’s and were pleased by the Hillsborough location. Our server was pleasant, informative and delivered the food still steaming hot. What more could you ask for? 9.5

Value 17/20

OG: Dinner entrees at Nonni’s range from $11.95 for Fettucini Alfredo to $13.50 for a wood-fired pizza to $28 for a veal chop. Pasta also comes in family-sized servings. It’s possible to get a very good meal for a reasonable price or to splurge if you want. 8.5

TDC: The meal came with bread and a salad at no additional charge, which is always a plus for value. The serving size was ample and even though the prices may not be cheapest, they do offer a family-size portion for their pasta dishes, making it a place the family can get a good meal without hurting the budget too much. 8.5

TOTAL: 86.5/100

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