 EPOCH RESTAURANT AND BAR 90 Front Street, Exeter (at the Exeter Inn) 603-778-EPOCH; theexeterinn.com Serving: Breakfast, 7-10 a.m. daily; Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Saturday; Sunday Brunch, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Dinner, 5:30-9 p.m., Sunday-Thursday; 5:30-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday. Cuisine: Contemporary American Dinner entrees $16-$34 Scoring: Our Gourmet and The Dining Companion each grade a restaurant in six categories, for a combined total score of up to 100 points. Visit the Dining section of NewHampshire.com to read previous Our Gourmet reviews listed by town. |
Ambiance 9/10
OG: Completely updated, Epoch features brick walls hung with flocked curtains shot with gold. Upholstery and accents in earthy colors make for a calm, comfortable experience. The open, yet intimate dining area gives way to a thoroughly modern bar area accessible by glass stairs lit underneath in red. The overall effect is contemporary, yet comfortable. 4.5
The Dining Companion: I’ve never had the pleasure of seeing the Exeter Inn prior to this evening. Walking in I was impressed with the clean modern look with high ceilings and well-lit space that seemed to flow well. 4.5
Appetizer 18/20
OG: I started out with a lovely Zinfandel from the restaurant’s extensive selection of wines by the glass. From the short list of appetizers, salads and soups, I chose the Fort Rock oysters ($12), a couple of lightly battered and fried oysters served over a leek-mussel slaw on a brioche crouton. This was all set on a chipotle-lemongrass aioli. The oysters were perfectly prepared. The slaw was savory. The aioli had a light touch with barely a bite from the chipotle. 8
TDC: I ordered the corn-encrusted Maine crab cake ($12) served with a cilantro infused avocado salsa, lemon jam, and a roasted garlic aioli. I like a good crab cake, but these blew me away. They were mainly crab with a nice peppery bite to them. The salsa and aioli were also delicious, but the lemon jam seemed to be a marmalade that was out of place on the plate. Still, it’s a “would order again.” 10
Entree 16.5/20
OG: I ordered the rosemary grilled rack of lamb ($30 full/$18 half) rare and it came out perfectly done with wonderful flavor from a garlic ginger glaze. The lamb was served with an al dente and well-seasoned broccolini and a ricotta-potato roulade, which was made of thinly sliced potatoes wound around a ricotta filling. I wasn’t crazy about the starch dish, which was quite heavy. I felt the overbearing and cloying flavor detracted from the overall dish, marring an otherwise perfect offering. 8.5
The nice thing about Epoch is that on most entrees you have a choice of a full serving and a half serving. The half serving allowed me to have an appetizer, entree and dessert and not leave overstuffed.
TDC: I also went with a half order and ordered the scallop and lobster papardelle ($29 full/$18 half) served with chorizo, baby spinach and General Stark vodka cream sauce. The scallops were big and well cooked, the chorizo was tasty, but the vodka cream sauce was a bit overpowering. 8
Dessert 18.5/20
OG: Epoch’s desserts are home made and delectable, a welcome change from the mass-produced offerings of far too many restaurants. In order to get a good sampling of the offerings, I ordered Natalie’s choice ($9), which consisted of a dark chocolate crème brûlée, a chocolate torte and a pumpkin goat cheese cheesecake. Now I have tried and tried to like goat cheese and have been unable to do so, and my thought was that perhaps, I would enjoy it in a cheesecake. I didn’t. So it’s unfair for me to judge it except to say the presentation was lovely and the couple next to us ordered it and seemed to love it.
But the chocolate crème brûlée and the chocolate torte were heavenly. The brûlée was thick and rich and scrumptious; the chocolate torte had a rich dark chocolate filling in a nutty crust. I get hungry just thinking about it. 9.5
TDC: I was shocked when I heard OG ordering the cheesecake knowing how much she “loves” goat cheese, but my mind was on ordering my dessert which was a duo of crème brûlées — rich chocolate and a dulce de leche ($6) for which the words that come to mind are decadent and delicious. OG described the chocolate brûlée as I would have. The dulce de leche was creamy with a slight caramel taste and was my favorite of the two. 9
Service 10/10
OG: Our server Amy was very friendly and provided impeccable service. 5
TDC: I also agree that Amy was professional and did Epoch proud. 5
Value 17.5/20
OG: Take away my extremely expensive glass of Zinfandel and my decadently pricey dessert wine and the total bill came to just over $85, very, very reasonable for a dinner of this caliber. Ordering half plates made the difference, but I left pleasantly full and thoroughly satisfied, making Epoch a great value for a special night out. 9
TDC: This is a great place for that special night out or occasion. I also agree that the half plates add a value component to Epoch and definitely helps TDC’s waistline. This is on our list of “would visit again” restaurants. 8.5
Total score: 89.5/100
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