Our Gourmet
THE SHAKER TABLE
Canterbury Shaker Village, Canterbury;
783-4238; theshakertable.com

Serving: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., 7 days a week; Dinner, 5-9 p.m., Friday and Saturday; Brunch, 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday

Cuisine: Shaker-inspired cooking

Prices: Dinner entrees average $27.

Scoring: Our Gourmet and The Dining Companion each grade a restaurant in six categories, for a combined total score of up to 100 points.

Visit the Dining section of NewHampshire.com to read previous Our Gourmet reviews listed by town.

The Dining Companion: The Shaker Table has an impressive list of alumni chefs. Sebastian Carosi, James Haller, Jeffrey Paige, Todd Sweet, and others have worked there at one time or another. Chef Kevin Shea continues serving great food prepared in the simple but elegant Shaker tradition. It’s a wonderful drive to Canterbury Shaker Village, especially in the fall.

Ambiance 9/10

Our Gourmet: The dining room at The Shaker Table is pleasant but simple. From the caned chairs to the minimal ornamentation, the room reflects the Shakers’ quality craftsmanship and simplicity. The space is light, open and comfortable. 4.5.

TDC: The restaurant is situated in the old blacksmith shop in the quaint Shaker Village in Canterbury. It is a meticulously maintained structure with great access for handicapped diners. Most of the dining area has a view into part of the working kitchen. 4.5

Appetizer 18.5/20

OG: The baby spinach salad ($8) consisted of fresh spinach mixed with sweet and spicy poached apples, candied pecans and red onion. All were tossed in a sweet poppy dressing. The sweet flavors could have, under different hands, become cloying — but these didn’t. A very refreshing salad. 9. (Note: In order to make use of the fresh locally available products, the menu at The Shaker Table changes weekly, so the items here may differ from offerings on another evening.)

TDC: The grilled chicken apple sausage ($8) was served with locally made and delicious Sweet Heat mustard. The sausages were plump and flavorful. No one flavor overpowered the others and the subtle sweetness of the apple came through. My dilemma was whether to have it with the mustard or sans mustard, as the sausage was delicious either way. A “would order again.” 9.5

Entrée 18/20

OG: I couldn’t pass up an opportunity to try something different, so I chose the elk stew ($27), made from local farm-raised elk and vegetables simmered together and served with long grain and wild rice pilaf. The elk had just a touch of the taste of wild game, with the texture of pot roast. The sauce was rich and savory, with a touch of sweetness. The rice was perfectly cooked. The entree was served with a side of mashed potatoes that had a bit of – horseradish? Rutabaga? Also on the side was a pickled beet slaw and carrots with red peppers. The mélange of flavors and textures, while all very different, combined for a pleasant and palatable meal. 9.

TDC: It is so easy for us when we go out to do this column to go for the rich and unique, but for the folks who go out and aren’t as adventurous, I decided to review a traditional dish — the roasted chicken ($23). I got a half chicken served with the side of mashed potatoes, (which I believed had a touch of turnip in them), and the other sides that OG mentioned above, except for the rice. The chicken was well-seasoned and very moist. The mashed potatoes were the way I like them with small lumps of potato for texture instead of being riced. 9

Dessert 19/20

OG: I loved my dessert, described as a chocolate honeycomb cake ($7). Layers of a very dense chocolate cake (almost a fudge) were alternated with layers of a creamed honey filling. I’m not a huge fan of honey, but the chocolate and honey combined into an unexpectedly delicious and indescribable flavor. Rich and filling, but highly recommended. 9.5.

TDC: I decided to continue my quest for an authentic apple crisp ($7) and this one was darn close. This one actually tasted like a good old-fashioned apple crisp should with big chunks of apple, brown sugar, little cinnamon, oats and a little love. 9.5

Service 9/10

OG: Our server was professional, while at the same time friendly and willing to answer questions about the establishment. The food come out well-paced and hot. Nothing to complain about here. 4.5.

TDC:Our server did a nice job of taking care of us, and constantly kept an eye on us to see if we had a need for anything. The service was also well-paced. I had no complaints either. 4.5

Value 17/20

OG: With entrees in the $25-$30 range, The Shaker Table isn’t cheap. But if you want to do something a little extra special and spend a little more cash, you’ll definitely get what you pay for. Maybe not an everyday experience, but a little indulgence that will be well worth the price. 8.5

TDC: The Shaker Table is a bit remote, so driving there is a planned experience. In my mind it is worth the trip for that special occasion. Plan to go early and tour the village or attend many of the events they hold there, and top it off with a fine dinner or Sunday brunch. I know we will. 8.5

Total: 90.5 points

Thanks to Andrea Dollen of Bedford who suggested that we review The Shaker Table. She will receive a copy of “The Amish Cook at Home” by Lovina Eicher with Kevin Williams (Andrews McMeel Publishing). Do you have a favorite restaurant that you'd like to see reviewed? Drop us a line at lifestyles@unionleader.com.