Our Gourmet
CANCUN RESTAURANTE
230 Route 101W, Bedford
472-3656

Serving: Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday, noon to 11 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 10 p.m.

Cuisine: Mexican

Scoring: Our Gourmet and The Dining Companion each grade a restaurant in six categories, for a combined total score of up to 100 points.

Visit the Dining section of NewHampshire.com to read previous Our Gourmet reviews listed by town.

Our Gourmet:: The site of the newly opened Cancun Restaurante has seen so many eating establishments over the years that we could make a career of reviewing nothing but restaurants at 230 Route 101 W in Bedford.

Well, not quite, but it has seen its share and we’ve seen and tried them all. Hopefully Cancun Restaurante will stay around for awhile because from what we saw — and tasted — it’s off to a great start.

Appetizers 16/20

OG: We actually made two trips to Cancun — one for apps and drinks and one for dinner. The first time we ordered tamales (2 for $7.25) and chile rellenos (2 for $7.25); the second time we had chips and guacamole ($3.75) for an appetizer before dinner. Of course both times we also had the complimentary chips and salsa — the chips were crispy and hot, the salsa on the thin side, but tasty.

I’ve had quite a few tamales and I have to say, these were pretty good. They came steaming hot and the masa was cooked just right. The chile rellenos were lightly battered and stuffed with cheese that was melted and yummy.

Overall, not a bad effort. 8

The Dining Companion: The tamales were probably the best we have found in the state. They were moist and tasty with a nicely seasoned filling. The chile rellenos were not overly battered and greasy like others we have had. 8

Entrée 17/20

OG: I’m pretty much a Mexican standard fare girl — taco, burritos, enchiladas, flautas. But this time I tried something different — the camarones fundidos ($15.50), which consisted of grilled shrimp and scallops topped with cheese and a special sauce over a bed of Mexican rice. The dish had a lot of flavor with and without the accompanying guacamole and sour cream. The shrimp and scallops were a bit overcooked, but not much; the special sauce was surprisingly creamy and savory, unlike any I’ve had at a Mexican restaurant.

I still love my flautas, but this was an interesting departure. 8

TDC: I love mole so much that I search out freshly made moles when I travel to a new city. I tried Cancun’s pollo con mole ($15), which is a pounded boneless breast of chicken served with Mexican rice with a mole sauce drizzled on top. I loved their mole, which I am guessing was a mole poblano, a thick, chocolate-flavored sauce, one of the most popular moles in the U.S. 9

Dessert 11.5/20

OG: I ordered sopapillas ($3.50), which traditionally are a leavened dough deep fried and served with honey and powdered sugar — they come out puffy, like little pillows — and delicious. Unfortunately Cancun does what I’ve run into in one or two other places, which is to essentially fry a flour tortilla and coat it in brown sugar cinnamon and honey. It’s just not the same. 5

TDC: I had the Xango ($5.50), which was a flaky pastry tortilla filled with creamy cheesecake filling, rolled in cinnamon sugar. While it was different and unique, it really wasn’t the most satisfying dessert I have had at a Mexican restaurant — although, truthfully, Mexican restaurants aren’t usually known for their desserts. 6.5

Everything else 18/20

OG: The interior of Cancun is comfortable with a mix of booths and tables. The room we were seated in had bright, cheery Mexican-themed murals and clay tile “roofs.” Our server was pleasant and very friendly, taking time to chat with us. She brought the food out hot and in a timely manner, and everything went smoothly. 9

TDC: You can see that the new management took the time and did a great job of freshening up the place. We visited just a couple weeks after they opened, but the place seemed to be flowing well and hitting on all cylinders. 9

Value 18/20

OG: On a recent week night, Cancun was quite busy — it seems to have become a popular family spot, and no wonder. The combination of good food and service and reasonable prices is just what’s needed in the current economy — a good value. 9

TDC: Their prices are in line with most and when you drive by in the evening, their parking lot is full of family-sized cars. I believe finally there is a winner at Route 101W in Bedford. 9

TOTAL: 80.5/100

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