A free guided paddling tour of the 170-mile Androscoggin River? Hard to believe, but the New Hampshire Union Leader newspaper announcement was certainly worth further inquiry.

Computer access to the Androscoggin River Watershed Council (ARWC) web site , followed by a telephone call to ARWC, confirmed this was truly an opportunity to enjoy rustic wilderness up close and personal, while having the thrill of kayaking in northern New England. An added benefit would be learning the culture of the area through the eyes of those living there.

The ARWC web site described how it was celebrating and promoting the improved cleanliness of the Androscoggin River through a series of twenty day trips on the River. I had never paddled the Androscoggin River, nor did I know much about the history of the area. The ARWC was providing an opportunity for me to never say, “I wish I had paddled and learned more about northern New Hampshire and Maine.”

The Androscoggin River is formed on the Maine-New Hampshire border by the meeting of the Magalloway River and a short outlet of Lake Umbagog. The River flows generally south for some 35 miles through New Hampshire, then turns eastward, enters Maine a few miles west of Gilead, and meanders along a generally southeasterly course until joining the Kennebec below Bowdoinham in an estuary of the Atlantic called Merrymetting Bay. Androscoggin is derived from the name of an Indian tribe that lived on the banks of the river. The word Androscoggin is an Indian term meaning, "fishing place for alewives" or "spear fishing." The Androscoggin River Source to the Sea paddling Trek begins near the Lake Umbagog outlet in the Great North Woods of New Hampshire, and ends in the Atlantic Ocean at Fort Popham, Maine. Trek participants can join the moving river celebration as a day trip, do a series of days, or paddle the entire 20 days. My friend Dick Satter and I have chosen the option of spreading our Androscoggin trip over several years. Essentially, there is no commitment, and no fees.

The 2004 Trek to the Sea was the third year Dick and I joined the Trek for three days of outdoor living and paddling. In our two previous years, we did six days, with our wives joining us in the 2003 Trek. Due to other commitments, both wives could not make the 2004 Trek, but Dick and I were determined to continue our paddling streak. We have it in our minds that we eventually wanted to complete the whole twenty-day Trek. The 2004 Trek caused a bit of family discussion, as it started on Monday July 5th. Since this first day was nearly 4 hours away from our homes in Bedford, NH, we would need to get to our campsite Sunday evening. This meant leaving our lovely wives on the second day of a three-day July 4th celebration holiday weekend. It takes special wives to appreciate and understand our quest.

When the Trek first started nine years ago, it was nearly 100% canoes. Paddlers are now split 50-50 between canoes and kayaks, showing the recent interest in kayaking.

Preparation
I needed a kayak to use. I was seeking to buy a kayak, but could not decide on one before the Trek. Dick had bought two kayaks the previous year from Wilderness Sports in Gorham, and its owner Fran had made a very positive impression on Dick. I decided to call Fran and rent a kayak from her. When I called, she told me she did not rent kayaks, but would allow me to borrow one. I could now understand why Dick had always good things to say about Fran – lending a stranger a kayak for three days was odd to a city type person, but certainly in the Great North Woods a common occurrence.

I had previous experience in kayaking on the East Branch of the Penobscot the year before , and the second day of our Trek would include Class II rapids. Dick was extremely nervous about white water kayaking, as he had only flat-water experience. Day 2 was of great concern to him. Dick sent numerous e-mails to the Watershed Council, and to Fran, asking whether a person of his ability and limited experience could handle Class II rapids. Each time he received 100% positive encouragement, and yet he kept questioning his skill level to handle day 2. Initially I was very positive about his ability to handle Class II rapids, but the more he expressed concern, the more I felt maybe I was getting him into something he could not handle. More about Dick’s white water experience later.

Camping
Uncertain as to where to stay in northern New Hampshire, and this being an outdoor adventure, we absolutely needed to tent out. I called my new friend, Fran, and asked her for a recommendation on a 3-day stay. We wanted to tent on the Trek, and in a spot where we did not have to move our campsite. The Trek averages 10 miles of river paddling each day, and the Watershed Council provides shuttle van transportation to one’s car, so we felt a campsite in the middle of our journey would be convenient access for our three days. Fran recommended we try the Mollidgewock State Park in Errol, New Hampshire. Mollidgewock State Park lies along the shore of the Androscoggin River. It is about 30+ miles from the Canadian border. I went to the Mollidgewock web site , and located the price and information about the campground. We registered online at $13 per day.

Directions to the Park were online. We arrived at Mollidgewock Sunday afternoon. We introduced ourselves to the park ranger, and went to see if the campsite selected online was suitable for us – it looked fine. We returned to the ranger cabin, finished our registration, and got directions to where the Trek would start the next day. Campfires were allowed in the fireplaces, so we purchased logs to burn from the ranger, at $4 a bundle. We were now official registrants of Mollidgewock State Park.

Our campsite was perfect. We were 10 feet away from the Androscoggin River. If the river rose a few feet, however, we’d be swimming. Our site included a table and fireplace, where our $4 bundle would go up in smoke and keep us cozy. We set our tent up, had a cold beer, and walked around looking for a place to swim. Dick is an avid swimmer, and was excited to learn there was a sandy beach area within a few hundred feet of us. We explored a tarred path, which resembled a road, as it meandered along the riverbank. We learned from the Ranger this was the old Route 16 and the present day Route 16 was built further away from the River. Relocating the road straightened the road, and moving the road further back from the River helped protect the River from road waste pollution.

We were roughing it, but not to the extent we would do any cooking. Dick and I planned on eating breakfast and dinner at local restaurants, and on purchasing lunches at local supermarkets.

Our Daily Loon Morning Wakeup Call
Our campsite location was the favorite morning spot for a loon to make its wakeup call. Between 5:30 a.m. and 6:00 a.m. each day a loon would be within a few feet of the bank producing its mournful ear-piercing cry. We joked that it was our daily alarm clock.

Loons are pretty abundant on the Androscoggin. They are a beautiful bird to see, and to hear their unique “loon call” is a marvel. If you have an interest in hearing the four primary loon calls, you can go to The Canadian Wildlife Service Loon page and click on the Common Loon Sounds links.

Day 1 – 10 miles starting at Magalloway River and ending at Errol Dam
Our first day started with Dick and I eating breakfast in an Errol restaurant. Barbara Barrett, Trek Coordinator, was in the same restaurant and recognized us from last year, and joined us for breakfast. With our three days from last year, and Dick’s e-mails to Barbara about Class II whitewater, this felt like old home week. Dick and I arrived at 8:15 a.m. for the scheduled 9 a.m. gathering on the shore of the Magalloway River, located about 8 miles north of Errol, on Route 16. This was also the headquarters of the Umbagog National Wildlife Refuge. We had visited the site the night before to insure we knew its location.

Shortly other paddlers began arriving. There were about 30 paddlers. People were assisting each other with unloading kayaks and canoes, and checking their gear for the day. Pleasant surprises were recognitions of others from last year’s Trek. The day was about 60 degrees and overcast. The weather folks were predicting rain showers, and as long as there was no lightning and thunder, the Trek would indeed take place. We just had to hope the rain held off until we were finished.

Chuck Knox, Executive Director of the Androscoggin River Watershed Council (ARWC) called the group together to begin the first day of the 2004 Androscoggin Trek to the Sea. Chuck emphasized the mission of the Androscoggin Watershed Council is to improve environmental quality and promote healthy and prosperous communities in the Androscoggin River Watershed area. He gave a brief introduction to the history of the Trek and its purpose to celebrate the revitalization of the formerly polluted 170-mile long Androscoggin River waterway.

Barbara Barrett displayed a map and pointed out the specific watershed areas that drain water into the Androscoggin River. She emphasized a large area consisting of mountains and streams as far as 100 miles away that feeds into this major New England River, and thus protection of all water areas is of utmost importance.

Barbara introduced the Umbagog National Refuge Manager, Paul Casey, who gave us an idea of what we would be seeing that day. He spoke about loons, and how we should stay away from them to protect their sanctuary and chicks. We could also expect to see deer, osprey, eagles, and maybe a moose, amongst the wildlife that thrives in the Androscoggin River area.

Paul explained the Lake Umbagog National Wildlife Refuge is a unique place in the Northern New Hampshire area to view a wide variety of wildlife. Lake Umbagog is the 2nd largest in New Hampshire, and it is the largest wildlife refuge in the state. Part of the refuge also extends into Maine, making its waters an inter-state lake. One question asked was, “What about our cars and who will pick us up at the end of the day?” Barbara responded that in her role as Trek Coordinator she arranges for a van shuttle. Before each day’s paddling starts, all cars (with just one driver so as to not exceed the capacity of the shuttles) drive to the day’s takeout point, where the van picks them up, and returns them here to the start. She cautioned all paddlers to remember to review their gear checklist to insure they do not leave important items (rain gear, water, food, paddles, vests, cameras, hats, sun lotion, binoculars, a set of dry clothes, warm cloths, dry bag, etc) in the car! Barbara noted a section leader will head the regatta, and experienced paddlers are assigned as “sweep” to paddle last to insure few problems and no separation from the group.

The group did individual introductions with their names, where they were from, how they heard of the Trek, and if they had been on the Trek before. Introductions allow us to learn a bit about the folks we are paddling with. I learned that two of my fellow paddlers were from towns where I had previously lived. During one conversation I learned that a fellow paddler had gone to school with one of my brothers. It is indeed a small world.

Shortly after 10 a.m. with an overcast sky, and near 60-degree temperature, our expedition of 30 paddlers enters the Magalloway River heading for the western side of Lake Umbagog. We begin our Trek to the Sea. We were on the water for only a few minutes when we saw an osprey fly overhead. Then a huge fish suddenly jumps attempting to catch a large dragonfly hovering over the water. Our Trek had just begun and here we were amidst the wilderness splendor of northern New Hampshire.

Light rain began to fall. Lake Umbagog was still a half-mile away. Some folks immediately brought out their rain gear. As for myself, I felt my hat and life vest were sufficient to keep me comfortable and fairly dry. As we approached the open lake the wind picked up, and it began to rain in earnest. This storm entrance to Lake Umbagog was exciting, as the rain and wind made whitecaps and a bit of “rough seas”. While following our section leader, we stayed close to shore and the swamp grass, using caution to avoid being flipped by the waves.

We spotted nesting loons with two chicks, and heeding our earlier warning from Paul Casey to be wary of loons while they have young, we stayed away to not upset them by getting too close. I guess the loons didn’t pay attention to Paul because the pair swam right toward us.

It was exciting blending into the wildlife habitat of the river and essentially being part of the habitat itself. You can read books, you can go to zoos, and you can watch movies – all about wildlife on the river. But being there, feeling it, smelling it, living it, is simply awesome.

Each day on the river usually includes a stop for a picnic lunch and a speaker sharing insights area. Given the wet weather of Day 1, the group decided to skip the picnic and continue along to the takeout at Errol Dam. We finished Day 1 at about 1:30 p.m.

Throughout the day, Dick was questioning, those who would listen, about his kayaking skills for day 2. It was obvious to me that Dick spent most of the day worrying about the next day’s whitewater difficulty. He was very concerned about his skill level.

Paddling Skill Levels
An obvious question before one embarks on a river-paddling trip is, “what skill level does it require? Is there white water, and if so, what class?” All levels of experience are welcome on the Trek, but there are a few days where paddling experience in moving water is strongly recommended. Dick had checked the schedule and saw that Day 2 was a Class II whitewater day.

First let’s define Class II whitewater . Class II generally means you may get splashed. The waves may reach 3 to 4 feet in height with easy to see obstacles ahead. Class II does require some skill level for avoiding rocks, navigating river bends, sunken logs and other visible obstacles.

In contrast to Class II is Class III. Class III means “you will get wet.” Class III has large and continuous waves, some in excess of 6 feet. Small drops, ledges or waterfalls may be present. The Androscoggin Trek to the Sea enjoys only the Class II rapids. The Androscoggin does have greater than Class II rapids, but these rapids II are portaged around by the Trek.

A bit more background on Dick. Dick is a conditioned athlete who runs 4 to 6 miles 5 days a week. He faithfully does indoor bike training twice a week, and has run the Boston Marathon in 3 hours. However, he is very nervous when he has never done something before – like doing Class II whitewater in a 17-foot kayak on the Androscoggin River.

Months before the July 5th start, Dick e-mailed Barbara, the trip coordinator, who knew him from our previous year’s Trek, and asked her if the 3 days I was proposing had whitewater, and if so, did she think he could handle it. She responded in the positive that only Day 2 had white water, and she thought her remembrance of Dick’s kayaking skills would be sufficient to handle this section of the River. In any case, he could portage any area in which he did not feel comfortable.

After getting her positive response, Dick sent a similar request e-mail to Roland, a friend we had met from Gorham, NH on our first Trek. He and his wife had kayaks similar to Dick’s. Roland, like Barbara, confirmed Dick should have little trouble through the rapids on Day 2.

Dick was not to be denied his fear, and so he e-mailed Fran, the owner of Wilderness Sports, and asked her opinion of his skills. Again, he received a very encouraging, “Go for it” e-mail response. While all these e-mails were happening, Dick was continually inquiring of me if he could do Class II. I repeatedly responded, “You have been kayaking for two years, including ocean kayaking, and I have all the faith you can do it with no problem. In the worst case, you will simply get wet.” Dick’s inquiry of me was relentless.

When we saw Barbara on Day 1 in the breakfast restaurant, the first comment from Dick to her from Dick’s mouth was, “Do you think I can do Class II for Day 2?” This time Barbara had another answer.

“Dick,” she said, “After the end of today’s Trek, there is a section of Class II whitewater below Errol Dam that is a bit tougher than tomorrow, but should be within your skill level. If you can handle the Dam’s rapids, you can handle any Day 2 rapids. Why not try it after today’s Trek?”

Her recommendation to Dick was certainly appropriate, but left me with responsibility of testing these rapids with Dick.

And so, at the end of our Day 1 Trek, Dick and I went to look at the rapids below Errol Dam. As we approached the rapids we saw two kayakers exiting from the rapids downstream where they had been training. Dick immediately hurried over to these strangers asking whether this section was passable by someone with limited white water experience. They expressed reservation. This was not looking good for Dick.

We decided that I would go through these rapids first, and Dick would watch where I went. Depending on how I did and what I felt, then we both would then decide if he would give them a try.

At this section of the River, it was about 30 plus yards wide, with lots of white water brewing from rocks and a downhill location. I scouted the rapids, and decided on a line through them just to the right off center of the river.

I was a bit nervous myself, as this section of the river was completely unknown to me. I have done some Class II and III kayaking before , but most of my white water experience was in a canoe, so I was trying to maintain a confident appearance outward, while inside I was nervous and kept repeating my own advice, “keep it pointed downstream.” Dick now had me questioning my own skills.

Off I went, into Class II rapids that extended 200 plus yards downstream and dropping ten feet over this distance. My worry was all for naught, as upon entering the river, my instincts from prior canoe and kayaking ventures immediately took over. I looked for the mouth of the downstream “vees”, or chutes, veering once or twice to miss obvious rocks. I reminded myself when swerving to miss the rocks, that before getting close to the rocks I needed to keep the kayak pointed downstream.

It was only a few minutes before I reached a calm water area for takeout. Dick followed me on shore, and we portaged the kayak back to the start of the rapids. I shared with him that he could handle this type of whitewater. It would now be Dick’s turn to “run the rapids.”

Dick asked about reading the rapids, as I frequently spoke about “hitting the open mouth of the “vee”. I use the word “vee”, whereas others may talk about “chutes.” Essentially you are trying to locate and follow the deep water. A downstream “vee” is caused by the main flow of the current passing between two obstructions, most usually rocks. Think of the letter “v” having two ends. One end is a point, the other an open end, or mouth. Generally speaking, the mouth of a vee will have smooth fast moving water with clearance for the paddler. With upstream vees you see the point, and this indicates the presence of an obstruction such as a rock at the point of the vee – we try to stay away from upstream “vees.”

I stressed to Dick that, “One learns to read the river by doing it.” You begin on low rapids and learn the water turbulence that occurs when water flows between two obstructions, or when water flows over a flat rock. You develop a “feel” or “instinct” to where to go. You plan 2 or 3 turns ahead, even though you are not ready to execute them. It is like the game of Chess where you need to develop two or three moves ahead, even though your immediate move is at hand. So too it is with kayaking a river. It was now time for Dick to get this experience.

This section of the rapids ran fine for me, but Dick’s nervousness was getting me concerned that I was pushing him into something he was not capable of handling. I eyed the river for an escape point in case Dick got stuck, overturned, or had other complications needing assistance.

I slowly and cautiously advised Dick to remember the warning I repeatedly had given him many times before, “No matter what, keep the kayak heading downstream. Don’t let the kayak get sideways. Rocks forgive kayaks if you hit them straight as most generally you go to one side or the other, so keep the kayak pointing downstream if you find yourself getting into trouble.

If you do flip, protect your rear end and legs from rocks by pointing your feet downstream on top of the water, and use your hands to maneuver to shore. Pretend you are in leaning back in a rocking chair. Do not stand until you are on shore. You will be fine.”

I helped Dick into his kayak, guided him into water of depth, and away he went! I was knee deep in water with excitement and nervousness. What was I committing my friend to?

Of course, he was marvelous and “expertly” made his way around rocks and into the “vees”. I strained to see him from my river edge perch, and when he was out of sight, I ran to the pullout. There was Dick, triumphantly holding the paddle over his head! I yelled and congratulated him, “you are now ready for Day 2!” And just to be certain and give him more confidence and practice in white water, I encouraged him to try the rapids a second time. He agreed, and we portaged the kayak to the start, and away he went. Again successfully and without incident, Dick conquered the Class II rapids. He was now “experienced” with Class II whitewater, and ready for Day 2.

Day 2 - 11.5 miles from Errol through the 13 Mile Woods
Day 2 started at the Errol Bridge, downstream of the rapids that Dick and I had paddled the afternoon before. The weather again was overcast and in the mid-sixties with the weatherman promising rain late in the day. The schedule for the Trek noted Day 2 as “suitable for experienced paddlers only.” These 11.5 miles would contain four or five sections of Class II whitewater. Hence only 15 or so folks were at the meeting place. The group was composed of some of the previous day’s paddlers, plus a few new folks.

As with Day 1, the day started with Barbara and Chuck doing introductions and talking about the mission of the ARWC, and the Androscoggin watershed. David Govatski, Silviculturist and Fire Management Officer of the White Mountain National Forest, was introduced as our noontime speaker on “Those Who Came Before”. A silviculturist is defined as one who establishes and cares for forest stands such as managing tree nurseries and thins forests to encourage natural growth. A silvicultrist conducts research in problems of forest propagation and culture such as tree growth rate, effects of thinning on forest yield, duration of seed viability, and effects of fire and animal grazing on growth, seed production, and germination of different species. They also develop techniques for measuring and identifying trees. Dave encouraged us to ask questions of him throughout the day’s Trek.

Barbara cautioned us about being too close to each other when going through whitewater. She wanted plenty of room between boats in case a craft tips over; and needed to be rescued. She did not want a pile up of boats needing rescue.

She asked David to lead us through the white water, and she and Chuck would serve as “sweep” in case any paddler needed assistance.

Barbara also stressed, as I had the day before with Dick, that if we did flip, we must keep our rear ends and our toes pointing downstream. This technique allows use of our feet to feel and push us off rocks, preventing scrapping our bottoms and preventing our feet and legs getting stuck in rocks, which could be devastating and life threatening. If we did flip, and we were floating downstream protecting our butts and legs, we could then use our hands to maneuver safely to shore.

Dick kept saying, “Steve, you lead and I will follow.” I repeated, “Remember, keep your kayak pointing downstream. Do not let your kayak get sideways.”

We got to our first set of rapids. By definition they appeared to be Class II. As planned, Dave Govatski, went through first in his canoe. I followed Dave’s line. I maneuvered around protruding rocks, as well as submerged rocks lying just under the water. I had Dick on my mind and I would periodically turn my head to keep an eye on him in case he got in trouble on a rock or worst case overturned.

Dick was right behind me, keeping an appropriate distance, and looking focused but cool as a cucumber. This first set of rapids was a few hundred yards in length, with obvious obstructions and turns, and Dick smoothly and adroitly ran the rapids without incident. Dick had done an excellent job! All congratulated Dick. His success was a brief and exciting thrill for all of us.

However, not all the paddlers faired as well as Dick. One first time kayaker flipped in the rapids, and was quickly rescued by a sweep canoe. The River was not deep, and she was able to stand up without danger, and make herself to shore while others gathered her overturned kayak and floating paddle.

We arrived at our second set of rapids – again Class II. One of the experienced kayakers went first showing us our way through a winding a path that avoided protruding boulders and hidden stones. We lost one of our canoes as they overturned going over a 2-foot drop. The rest of the group paddled in place before the rapids, and we waited while the paddler was quickly rescued with only his pride hurt.

Dick was right behind me and it was our turn to do the rapids, and the drop. Dick handled the drop with proficiency. He certainly was making me proud of him – and he was gaining confidence with each success. On the next set of rapids, I looked behind me and Dick was not there! I then looked ahead, and lo and behold he was already through the rapids! What confidence! He made it without incidence.

We did lose another kayak as the paddler turned sideways and flipped after gathering a full wave into his lap. Again, no injury other than to his pride.

I caught up to Dick, and said, “You looked great. Nice maneuvering around those hidden rocks.” His response, “What rocks?” I knew he wasn’t kidding. All I could think of was that innocence is bliss.

Our lunch break was taken on shore. David spoke about the original natives in this area – those that came just after the glaciers melted. He showed artifacts of the era. Questions of the local Indian tribes were asked, and we learned this area was native to the Abenaki nation.

I have not mentioned the wildlife and scenery of Day 2. I guess we were so attentive to the rapids, this subconsciously passed us. One exciting movement was an osprey flying directly above us with a large fish in its talons. Individuals quickly yelled out the type of fish held by the osprey, “trout”, “bass”, “sucker”. We all differed, but we all agreed it was a foot plus in length. Day 2 ended about 2 p.m. with high-fives by all.

Day 3 - 9 miles from 13 Mile Woods to the Bofinger Boat Launch
Day 3 started with a group meeting at 9 a.m. at the site where we had exited the previous day. Barbara and Chuck did the usual orientation, and introductions. Day 3 had both new and familiar faces – we were at about 20 paddlers. The sun was bright with a weatherman promise of a hot day. The temperature very quickly reached the 80’s.

Before we began our day 3 Trek, Will Staats of the New Hampshire Fish and Game Department spoke about the delicate balance and conflicts with wildlife, lumbering, and employment. I recalled Will had been with us the previous year. As we paddled later Will further shared his knowledge of the history and wildlife of this northern New Hampshire area.

Barbara had warned us to be sure to use sunscreen lotion. I used some, but later in the day my thighs started to burn, and when I looked down I saw that the inside of my legs were exposed to the sun and getting badly burned. Luckily one of my fellow paddlers had extra sun lotion for me to borrow.

Within minutes, after our start, an eagle flew overhead, and then perched in a tree to view us, as we in return, gawked at it. We assembled in a group in the middle of the smooth flowing river, as Will explained the habitat of the eagle. Will pointed out the large eagle nest in a tree in the distance. It appeared to be near treetop, dark and huge.

Will pointed out an osprey nest. The size of the eagle and osprey nest appeared to be the same, but whereas the osprey nest was seen with overhanging twigs and grass, and hanging over the river as we passed underneath it, the eagle nest was further into the woods.

We saw two loons swimming nearby. As we paddled by them they dove underwater, and stayed under for what appeared to be minutes. We searched the area for them to appear, and then their heads bobbed to the surface some 100 yards upstream.

This day’s section of the river offered a spectacular view of mountains. At one long stretch we could see mountains and clouds perfectly reflect on the smooth river surface. The blues, greens, and white copied the sky, mountains and clouds. It was a beautiful remembrance to behold, and another reminder of the wonder of our beautiful country.

Day 3 ended with a sense of accomplishment and sadness for Dick and I. This would be our last day on the 2004 Androscoggin River Source to the Sea Trek.

Meals and the Republic of Indian Stream
Each day the Trek ended before 2 pm. This left us plenty of time to tour the Great North Woods of New Hampshire.

Errol is a tiny rustic town with a population of 300+. It has a general store where you can buy just about anything. There are a few restaurants. Its main industry is lumbering and outdoor activities such as outdoor camping facilities, and canoe and kayak trips and rentals.

We wanted to combine moose sighting with our dinner location. We ate in Errol our first night, and then at dusk drove Route 16 North until we reached the Maine border (only 10 + miles from Errol). Upon our return we indeed saw a moose. It was exciting, as Dick had never seen a moose before.

Our second evening we went to Colebrook for dinner, about 30 minutes drive from our tent site in Errol. To get to Colebrook we took Route 26 West, crossing through Dixville Notch. Dixville Notch, a town of 12 + registered voters, is famous for being “the first in the nation vote” at its very majestic Balsams Hotel. As one drives over the notch you suddenly see a castle in the middle of the wilderness, fronted by a mirror lake. We have taken our wives the past two years to the Balsams in March, and we thoroughly enjoyed our stay and royal treatment in this very historic and all-inclusive resort. Not only have we skied there, but also we have played golf on its two pristine courses . This resort is a must to see, even if one simply drops by for a quick look. We were continually impressed with the low-cost of supplies and other amenities in the area. Although it is a tourist area, prices were extremely reasonable.

Upon our return over Route 26 to Errol, we saw a moose standing next to the road. I thought Dick was going to go through the roof with his excitement, as he saw the moose when he was talking to his wife on the cell phone. It was funny seeing Dick describe to his wife how close we were to the moose.

On our last night in Errol, we went again to Colebrook. This time we took Route 3 north. I had always wanted to see Pittsburg, NH, as it is on the Vermont/Canadian/NH border. I have heard of its “moose ally” and it being a snowmobile destination. It took less than an hour to get to Pittsburg from Errol, and we were not disappointed with Pittsburg’s beauty and people.

We ate dinner in a beautiful Pittsburg restaurant, and engaged in conversation with a local resident. When they heard we were not from the area, they shared a most interesting heritage story about the Republic of Indian Stream. Learning about Indian Stream was extremely exciting for me, as I had taught at Daniel Webster College, and I had learned about how Daniel Webster was responsible for settling a dispute on the USA and Canadian boundary lines. However, I never knew this tidbit about how Indian Stream was part of that treaty. It was most thrilling to extend my knowledge of Daniel Webster.

I was so enthralled with the story of the Pittsburg locale, that after my return home I did an Internet search on the Republic of Indian Stream:

“For many years after the American Revolution, this Connecticut Lake region was claimed by both the United States and Canada. The settlers formed their own local government, and about 1829, the section became known as Indian Stream Territory (named after a small stream whose source is in the northern tip of the state). On July 9,1832, the inhabitants organized the "Republic of Indian Stream," with a written constitution, council, assembly, and courts.

The tiny State existed for three years...when after a dispute with the Canadian authorities the territory was occupied by New Hampshire Militia. Incorporated as Pittsburg in 1840, the north and west boundary lines were established in 1841, and by the Ashburton Treaty (1842) the region was awarded to New Hampshire (and the United States).

Pittsburg, New Hampshire, is a part of the region known as the Great North Woods and is located at 45.112923 North-71.255096 West. (wunderground.com) For a few years in the 1830s, an area of today's Pittsburg was an independent republic, not part of New Hampshire and not part of the United States; it was called the Indian Stream Republic.

The 360 inhabitants of this land established their own independent republic even though both Canada and the United States claimed the area, an area of 200,000 acres in northern New Hampshire near today's U.S./Canada border in Pittsburg. The US tried to make settlers in the area pay taxes, and Canada tried to make them serve in its military, so the people decided to not be a part of either the US or Canada but to establish their own sovereign nation instead.

Support for the Trek
Volunteers, state and local agencies, foundations, contributions from local sponsors, raffles, and souvenir clothing purchases support the Androscoggin Source to the Sea Canoe and Kayak Trek. The Lincoln Canoe Company of Freeport, Maine, donated a 14-foot Kevlar canoe (see Figure 5) as a major raffle item.

What a privilege to spend four days camping, paddling, and exploring the Great North Woods of New Hampshire. We made new friends, saw moose, eagles, osprey catching fish, learned about the Republic of Indian Stream, and did 30 miles of kayaking including Class II whitewater. What a wonderful world we live in. For information about the 2005 Androscoggin River Source to the Sea Trek Schedule, go to www.androscogginriver.org. Pre-registration is required so ARWC can plan shuttle vans, and meals (as some of the days meals are provided by local sponsors).

Dick and I want to thank Barbara Barrett and Chuck Knox for their courtesies and wonderful hospitality. Their enthusiasm, knowledge, and organizational skills made our experience meaningful and personal. Thank you.

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