 MANGIA RESTAURANT 114 Londonderry Turnpike (Route 28 Bypass), Hooksett 647-0788; Serving: Tuesday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Wednesday and Thursday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. (lunch) and 5-9 p.m. (dinner); Friday and Saturday, noon to 2 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. (Reservations required). Cuisine: Italian Dinner entrees: $12.95-15.95 Scoring: Our Gourmet and The Dining Companion each grade a restaurant in five categories, for a combined total score of up to 100 points. Visit the Dining section of NewHampshire.com to read previous Our Gourmet reviews listed by town. |
I don’t even remember how it came to our attention, but we’d never heard of it and had never heard anyone speak of it. I suspect those who have been there want to keep the secret to themselves.
The Dining Companion: When I used to dine in Boston’s North End, I would look for the little places down the back alleys with a chef trying to make a name for himself. This type of place, a bit off the main streets, brought back those memories.
OG: The first thing you need to know is that alcohol is BYOB with a corkage fee of $3.95. Second, the restaurant doesn’t take American Express. So, leave the AmEx card at home, bring a bottle of your favorite wine and you should be all set.
Appetizer 17/20
OG: I started with a Caesar salad ($7.50). The romaine was bite-sized and crunchy and, with a light Caesar dressing, croutons and lots of shredded Parmigiano. I ordered mine with anchovies (95 cents extra) and they melted in my mouth. A nice salad, but a bit pricey. 8
TDC: I had the stuffed portabella mushroom special ($9.95), a nice large cap stuffed with a savory blend of sautéed celery, sausage, carrots, onions, leeks with melted mozzarella and drizzled with a little balsamic. It was a delicious blend of ingredients that put a smile on my face. 9
Entrée 17.5/20
OG: I chose the tilapia special ($20.95). Two good-sized pieces of tilapia, lightly battered and fried up very nicely, were absolutely smothered in the other ingredients. The capers were giant, the mushrooms fresh, the anchovies salty and the sun-dried tomatoes flavorful. It was a wonderful, satisfying mix of flavors — and there was plenty to take home for a second meal. 9
TDC:The veal Parmesan ($18.95), was well cooked to a delicate pink and fork tender, served with penne in a mozzarella ricotta and roasted garlic tomato-based sauce. I enjoyed it and would recommend it, but in the back of my mind I’m still hearing the other specials that our server Jen mentioned that evening. Maybe I’ll try something a bit different next time... 8.5
Dessert 16.5/20
OG: Dessert consists mainly of Italian standbys: Gelatos, cannolis and tiramisu. I chose the tiramisu ($5.25), which was homemade. Nothing out of the ordinary, but delicious, nevertheless. 8
TDC: Standbys, yes, but they do have one or two specials. I ordered the banana crepes ($6.95), which were airy crepes with syrupy banana goodness with a dollop of whipped cream. 8.5
All the rest 16.5/20
TDC: Set back from the road on the Route 28 Bypass among the industrial businesses and auto shops, Mangia is easy to miss. The restaurant is not large, seating maybe 30, and it isn’t the fanciest place, but it is very comfortable. It seemed like everyone who worked and dined there knew each other. When we mentioned that, our server said that is just what the owner was going for — that it should feel like you are going to a friend’s home for a meal. 8
OG: TDC is right: It IS a homey place. And our server was friendly, helpful and took good care of us. 8.5
Value 16.5/20
TDC: The entrees are not on the cheapest end of the spectrum, but the quality of the food gives it my vote and puts it high on the list of places we would come back to. 8
OG: It is kind of nice bringing our own wine. Some people may find it inconvenient, but it means I can have exactly the wine I want at a fraction of the usual restaurant price. Mangia’s prices are on the high end of average, but they’re certainly not exorbitant, and, as TDC points out, the food is well worth it. 8.5
TOTAL: 84/100
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