Our Gourmet

PASQUALE'S RISTORANTE
145 Raymond Road, Candia
483-5005; pasqualeincandia.com

Serving: Tuesday-Thursday, 4:30 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday: lunch, noon to 4 p.m.; dinner, 4 to 10 p.m.; Sunday: lunch, noon to 4 p.m.; dinner, 4 to 8 p.m.; closed Monday.

Cuisine: Italian

Dinner entrees average $20

Scoring: Our Gourmet and The Dining Companion each grade a restaurant in six categories, for a combined total score of up to 100 points.

Visit the Dining section of NewHampshire.com to read previous Our Gourmet reviews listed by town.

Our Gourmet: If you think you can’t find a good restaurant in a strip mall in the middle of Candia, think again. Pasquale’s Ristorante proves that location isn’t everything.

Ambiance 8/10

OG: Pasquale’s is clean and pleasant with the old-world Italian decor that so many Italian restaurants have. It’s not fancy, but it is cozy and comfortable. Score: 4

The Dining Companion: I have found that some of the best food is found in some out-of-the-way little places in strip malls, where the chef/owner puts his money into the food versus the ambiance. From the outside, it doesn’t look much, but walk in the place and it comes off as comfortable as OG describes. Score: 4

Appetizer 17.5/20

OG: After the obligatory basket of Italian bread with dipping oil, I tried something new with the escarole bruschetta ($7.99). If you’re used to the tomato-based bruschetta, this will be a marked change. Fresh escarole is sautéed in extra virgin olive oil, then mixed with anchovies, minced garlic, capers, Gaeta olives and cherry tomatoes. That mix is put on grilled Italian bread that’s then topped with fresh homemade mozzarella and baked. This was a nice savory dish in which the flavors blended together and no one taste stood out. Very nice. Score: 8.5

TDC: I decided to try the melanzana rollantine ($7.99), which was thinly sliced eggplant grilled and stuffed with mozzarella. The eggplant was nicely grilled and served cold and the mozzarella was a delightful, slightly salty fresh slice that was wrapped in the eggplant. A delicious start to the meal. Score: 9

Entree 18.5/20

OG: I went back and forth trying to decide what to choose from the many yummy-sounding offerings on the menu. Chef Pasquale Celone is from Italy and, according to his biography, studied extensively there, so I was pretty sure that whatever I ordered would be authentic. I finally settled on the risotto alla pescatore ($26.99), which consisted of creamy slow-cooked Arborio rice mixed with scallops, shrimp, mussels, clams and lobster meat, sautéed in extra virgin olive oil with garlic, wine and scallions. This was a treat. The risotto was nicely done, and judging by the flavor, was cooked with some of the seafood liquid, making it even more delicious. The shrimp was buttery, the scallops tender and mussels sweet. Served in a generous portion, it’s a must-try dish. Score: 9.5

TDC: I decided to go off menu and try one of the chef’s specials — the mahi-mahi and scallops Tetrazzini ($30) served with Calamata olives, large capers, asparagus, and a nicely whipped potatoes. The Tetrazzini sauce is a buttery Marsala sauce and was a nice match to the seafood. The scallops and mahi-mahi were tender and well cooked, and the potatoes were very tasty. Score: 9

Dessert 18/20

OG: Although none of the desserts — with the exception of the cannoli — are made on the premises, Chef Pasquale has chosen his offerings well. Veering away from my usual tiramisu, I ordered the almond amareno ($6.95), a piece of sponge cake soaked in Amaretto liqueur, topped with toasted almonds and crushed amaretto cookies. I love almond flavoring, and it came through loud and clear. The cake was wonderfully sweet and moist and enhanced by the tasty almond topping. It was a wonderful end to the meal. Score: 9

TDC: I decided to go with a traditional Italian favorite and had a cannoli, which was filled with a delightful ricotta mix that is made on site and stuffed as ordered. It was a perfect way to end a great meal. Score: 9

Service 9/10

OG: Our waitress Julianne was very personable and took the time to welcome us and answer any questions we might have. Score: 4.5

TDC: Julianne took great care of us and when there was question or an issue, she took care of it in a timely manner Score: 4.5

Value 17/20

OG: Ours was not a cheap night out. The bill for two, including cocktails and tax, came to $117. We ordered two of the more expensive entrees, however, so you can eat at Pasquale’s for considerably less. However, I didn’t mind the cost as it was worth every penny. Pasquale’s is definitely a culinary destination not to be missed. Score: 8.5

TDC: It may not be the cheapest, but this is another one of those great dinner-for-two places, a good thing to remember as Valentine’s day approaches. If you’re ever in Candia, this place is a great place for a meal. Score: 8.5

Total: 88/100

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